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Big Stitch Hand Quilting with Aurifil 12 wt. thread

I’ve been waiting to share some pictures with you of my completed Sew Scrappy Sampler!  I did some big-stitch hand quilting with Aurifil!

big stitch hand quilting with aurifil 12 wt thread

Remember this picture of the finished top?

Block of the Month Sampler QuiltWell, I was busy earlier this year hand quilting it with big stitches… and Aurifil 12 wt. thread!  I got to do a guest post over at the Aurifil Blog on the basics of hand quilting with their 12 wt thread.  photo 2

You can check out the tutorial here.

While I was quilting, Spooky did her usual job of supervising… she’s my quality control expert!IMG_4332-2

When she thought I wasn’t looking she tried to steal my precious thread! ~ little thief!  Who could blame her really… it’s pretty irresistible!

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You can literally find any color Aurifil thread you need!

DSC_0280Here are some of the colors I used in my sampler.

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For most of the blocks I did some simple outline stitches so the piecing or applique can be the focal point.

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DSC_0324DSC_0336I also quilted a clam shell design around the center of the quilt…
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The border is all straight stitching, and I outlined an occasional flower for fun.

DSC_0318Dreamy!
DSC_0297Some of you have asked what the back of my quilts looks like when they are hand quilted so I thought I’d show a couple pictures…

Look how pretty and fun!

photo 27 DSC_0338

I hope you give it a try!
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Quilting details:

Pattern: Sew Scrappy Sampler

Hand Quilting: Big Stitches with Aurifil 12wt Thread

Quilting Hoop: Hinterberg 18″ Quilting Hoop and Stand

Thimble: Clover Open Thimble

Needle: Clover gold eye Chenille #24

Fabrics: Kaffe Fassett

Batting: Soft Soft High Loft from The Warm Company

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Don’t forget to take a peek at my tutorial on the Aurifil Blog!

photo 20 pin
sherri

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Quilt As You Go Tutorial ~ Part 4

I can’t believe we are already at Part 4 of the quilt-as-you-go tutorial in our quilt-a-long!

Now that we have completed (at least) the first six blocks for the Power of Nine quilt-a-long and joined them into rows with the spacer blocks, it’s time for the next step in the Quilt As You Go tutorial!  I’m going to be working on the spacer rows for my scrappy Power of Nine Quilt. (Pattern Here)

quilt as you go tutorial

There are 5 spacer rows in the quilt…quilt as you go tutorialIf you’re following the qaug method please read the previous posts:

QAUG Part 1 ~ Quilting the Blocks

QAUG Part 2 ~ Quilting the Spacers

QAUG Part 3 ~ Joining the Blocks and Spacers into Rows.

In this 4th post, I am going to be working on the spacer rows.  There are a couple options I will cover for completing the spacer rows, but you may have your own ideas!

I am assuming you have read the previous posts so you don’t get lost… Ok, here we go!

There is a little planning to do when completing this row.  Remember, we have to think about the front AND the back of the row…

Here is the front of my first two completed block rows…

quilt as you go tutorial

And here is a look at the back…

quilt as you go tutorialYou can see that all the planning we did earlier in Part 1 is starting to take shape on the back of the quilt.  (Visit Part 1 to get the back diagram PDF)

Side Note ~ I want to take a moment to point out that this QAUG Row will be longer than the row in the pattern… WHY? Because the block sizes in the QAUG quilt actually measure out to the Unfinished Size ~ since the extra 1/2″ of the block in this method is hidden under the joining sashing, it’s not lost in the seam allowance. That means this quilt will be slightly larger than the pattern version that HAS lost the 1/2″ within the seam.  Make sense?  I hope so!  Let’s continue…

I decided that my spacer row would be solid on the front (like the original quilt) and scrappy on the back.  The scrappy back is going to be similar to the 2 1/2″ strips on the back of the spacer blocks but they will be vertical rather than horizontal.

Materials for ALL spacer rows using this method:

  • 2 yards of fabric for the front of rows and joining strips (cutting diagram below)
  • 150 ~ 2 1/2″ x 7 1/4″ strips for back side of row
  • 10 ~ 3″ x 7 1/4″ strips for back side of row
  • 5 strips of batting cut 7″ x 70″

STEP 1 ~ I began with the two yards of fabric for the front and

cut five 7″ x 72″ strips

and eight 1″ x 72″ strips.

There is just enough fabric for this with no room for error.

spacer row yardage Here’s what I got cut…

quilt as you go

STEP 2 ~ Take your 7″ fabric and batting strips and layer them with the fabric on top, right side up. (fabric will be slightly longer, that’s ok.)  I placed a paper towel under a section and spayed the batting with spray baste ~ then smoothed out the fabric on top, moving down the length… Don’t go crazy with your spray, just a few quick sprays gets the job done (and don’t do it on a nice table without protecting it)

quilt-as-you-go-part-4-068

 Now that side of fabric is all basted and secured to the batting…

quilt as you go tutorial

NOTE: if you want both sides of the row solid, repeat on the other side of batting with your backing fabric and quilt as desired.  Skip to step on trimming row.

For the back of my row I’m going to use the Stitch-and-Flip method of quilting as you go…

For each individual row you will need:

  • thirty  2 1/2″ x 7 1/4″ strips
two 3″ x 7 1/4″ strips (one at each end)
bobbin thread to match the top fabric (your bobbin thread will show on top fabric since we are working from the back side in this quilt)

STEP 3 ~ Begin by placing a 3″ x 7 1/4″ scrap piece right side up at the end of your batting/fabric strip on the batting side.  Place a 2 1/2″ x 7 1/4″ scrap piece on top, right side down.  Stitch 1/4″ from right edge.

quilt as you go stitch and flip tutorial

Press open

quilt as you go stitch and flip method

Step 4 ~ Continue to add all thirty 2 1/2″ x 7 1/4″ strips… stitch along right edge, flip open and pressquilt as you go stitch and flip method

As you go along, use a ruler to keep your lines straight so you don’t get wonky (unless, of course you WANT it Wonky!).  Your strip should measure 2 1/4″ from the seam line

quilt as you go stitch and flip tutorial

If your off, mark a line with your ruler at the 2 1/4″ mark

quilt as you go stitch and flip method

and just line up the next strip with the line

quilt as you go stitch and flip method tutorial

Step 5 ~ End the row with your second 3″ strip (32 strips total).  Look at the front side… you can see that your bobbin thread shows up as the stitching on the solid fabric…

quilt as you go tutorial stitch and flip method

I decided to keep mine simple and only add stitching on either side of the seams~

quilt as you go tutorial sitch and flip method

When you’re done with quilting your row, trim up both long edges by about 1/4″ so your strip measures 6 1/2″ x 65 1/2″ and your ready for the next step (and next post) of joining the rows!

quilt as you go tutorial

 Here is a look at the front and back laid out and ready to be joined ~

quilt as you go tutorial stitch and flip method

quilt-as-you-go-part-4-184

sherri

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Please share it!
How to join quilt blocks using the quilt as you go method.
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Sew Scrappy Sampler ~ Block 8

I hope everyone is enjoying their summer!  I think it’s a little harder to keep up with sewing when the weather is nice and there is so much to do outside!
I did get my block 8 finished for the Sew Scrappy Sampler…

~ Tying the Knot ~

tying the knot quilt block

For this block we will be working on partial seams (not to be confused with set-in seams)… They are quite simple and you can use the technique for future quilting projects once you know how to do it… so here we go…
This small block uses partial seams ~
partial seams tutorialStart with a center square and the surrounding four rectangles –
quilting partial seams tutorialPartially sew one rectangle to the square, right sides together.  I usually sew a little better than half the width of the center square.

quilting and piecing partial seams tutorial

Press the seam open and add the next rectangle (second seam) working around the center square.   partial-seams-015
 Keep sewing in the round…partial-seams-017partial-seams-022When you have all the rectangles attached sew the remainder of the partial seam to complete the block!

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Easy!

 

tying the knot quilt blockThere are a couple different ways to configure this block… My block uses the top example in the diagram below ~ if you put the two blocks together it creates a linking pattern…

tie the knot quilt blockHope you enjoy these partial seams!

Find the Pattern in MY SHOP or ON CRAFTSY.

Here are some of the previous blocks…

READ RELATED POSTS:

sherri

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Modern Love XO Quilt Pattern

My latest pattern

~ Modern Love ~

is now available in my shop!

modern love xo quilt pattern

I love scrappy quilts and this one is a paper pieced pattern so it goes together quick and is easy to join without any bulky points.

modern love scrappy quilt pattern

I did a lot of big stitch quilting with perle cotton on this quilt.

big stitch quilting

If you are interested in hand quilting with perle cotton you can check out my tutorial here:

Big Stitch Hand Quilting with Perle Cotton 8

For this quilt I began near the center of the quilt and hand quilted around each X and O.

big stitch quilting with perle cotton

Then I did some straight line stitching about an inch or so apart around the perimeter of the quilt.

big stitch hand quilting with perle cotton 8

That dreamy gray fabric is Terra Australis by Ella Blue– Gray Bush Sticks.  I got it from The Hangar on etsy (see find fabulous fabrics for the link).  It’s the perfect gray… I love it!

Each X and O on the quilt has four hand-stitched hearts…

big stitch hand quilting with perle cotton 8

The template for the hearts is included in the pattern for those who might want to hand quilt also.  The quilt has such a soft drape from the hand quilting that I just LOVE!  It makes it so soft and cozy.  The pattern gives instructions for three sizes~ Lap, Twin and Queen.

big stitch hand quilting with perle cotton 8

Thanks for checking out my new pattern…

If you like it, Please share it!

big stitch quilting ~ modern love xo quilt pattern by rebeccamaedesigns

big-stitches-with-perle-cotton
Linking up with Finish it up Friday!

sherri

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Bento Bag ~ A Lunch bag Tutorial

Sew Mama Sew and Spoonflower put together a fabulous

Kitchen Linens Challenge!

The challenge was to choose a kitchen fabric from Spoonflower and make anything kitchen related… I made this fun Bento Bag!

Bento Bag ~ a lunch and snack bag tutorialI think selecting the fabrics was almost harder than making the bag!  I was deep into the fabric ‘rabbit hole’ at Spoonflower, but I couldn’t get my eyes off this Equilibrium from Scrummy’s food and drink collection!  And I’m sure you can see why!  Am I right?

equilibrium fabric by scrummy on spoonflower

I chose a coordinating fabric called Springtime Gold Spot, also by Scrummy to coordinate!

Bento Bag - lunch bag and snack bag tutorial

Both fabrics are in Spoonflowers Linen Cotton Canvas.  If you are not familiar with Spoonflower, you choose your fabric design (or design your own!) and then you choose what type of fabric to print it on!  You can get Kona Cotton, Minky, Knit, Satin, Canvas and more!  If you are a quilter check out my Quilt Labels with Spoonflower Tutorial and design your own quilt labels!

Want to make this Bento Bag?

Bento bag - lunch and snack bag sewing tutorial

General Notes:

  • Always sew 1/2″ seam unless otherwise noted.
  • Backstitch at all start and stops.

Here is what you need…

Materials

  • 3/4 yard equilibrium cotton canvas fabric
  • 1/2 yard springtime gold spot cotton canvas fabric
  • (2) 14″ x 12″ pieces of insul-bright
  • 1/2 yard of ripstop nylon for lining
  • 7″ separating zipper
  • steam a seam 1/4″ tape
  • 15″ nylon strap for handle
  • optional fusible interfacing

To get started, from the equilibrium fabric cut:

  • two 10″ x 12″ for the bag exterior
  • two 2 1/4 x 5″ for the side pocket binding
  • four 3″ x 10″ pieces for the top zipper flaps

bento bag - lunch and snack bag sewing tutorial

Optional: For a more structured bag, back both of the 10″ x 12″ pieces with fusible interfacing cut to 9 1/2″ x 11 1/2″.  Center and fuse in place.

bento bag - lunch and snack bag tutorialFrom the Springtime Gold Spot fabric, cut:

  • two 5″ x 9 1/2″ for the bag sides
  • two 5″ x 6″ for the side pockets

    Bento Box ~ lunch and snack bag sewing tutorial

Optional: For a more structured bag, back both of the 5″ x 9 1/2″ pieces with fusible interfacing cut to 4 1/2″ x 9″.  Center and fuse in place.

Bento Bag - lunch bag and snack bag tutorial

Now sew the 2 1/4″ x 5″ binding strips to the top of the 5″ x 6″ pocket pieces.  Matching at 5″ sides and sewing a 1/2″ seam.  Press seam open.

Bento Bag - lunch bag and snack bag tutorial

Turn raw edge under two times to the back of the pocket piece and covering stitching. Press and pin in place.

Bento Bag - lunch bag and snack bag tutorialBento Bag - lunch bag and snack bag tutorial

Turn to the front of the pocket piece and topstitch along edge of binding, catching the fold of the binding on the back side.  I topstitched twice and used this Aurifil 12 weight thread for topstitching to make it stand out and to be a little more decorative.

Bento Bag - lunch bag and snack bag tutorialNext, place your pockets on top of the side exterior pieces ~ align at the bottom edges and baste in place with 1/4″ seam.  Align side units with the top edge of the equilibrium exterior piece and join with 1/2″ seam.

Bento Bag - lunch bag and snack bag tutorial

Press open.

Bento Bag - lunch bag and snack bag tutorial Join second exterior piece, aligning at the top edge again…

Bento Bag - lunch bag and snack bag tutorial

After sides are attached align bottom edges of exterior pieces and sew 1/2″ seam.

Bento Bag - lunch bag and snack bag tutorial

Now, box the bottom corners and sew 1/2″ seam across edge.

Bento Bag - lunch bag and snack bag tutorial

Turn your exterior bag right side out and set aside.  Let’s work on the top zipper now…  We will be using the four 3″ x 10″  exterior pieces (two for each zipper half) and the steam a seam for these steps.  Center the zipper, right side down, with the raw edge aligned with the 10″ edge of the fabric.  Use steam a seam or pins to secure zipper bottom and top fabrics.

bento bag - a lunch bag tutorial

Layer second fabric carefully on top (right side down) and pin or iron to secure.  Sew 1/2″ on each short end and sew along zipper (with zipper foot) on long edge.

lunch bag sewing tutorial

Repeat for second zipper side.  Clip corners and turn both pieces right side out.  Top stitch around three sides.

Bento Bag - A lunch bag sewing tutorialZip parts together, center zipper and cut to 5″ width.

Bento Bag - a lunch bag sewing tutorial

Unzip and pin one zipper part, right side together with each side of bag.

Bento Bag - a lunch bag sewing tutorialPin handle ends in place right sides together with bag.

Bento Bag - a lunch bag sewing tutorialSet aside bag exterior while we work on the lining… Cut two 12″ x 14″  lining pieces from your nylon ripstop fabric and two from the Insul-bright.  Layer and cut two 2 1/2″ corners out along the bottom 14″ edge.

Bento Bag - a lunch bag sewing tutorial

Now place the two ripstop pieces right sides together, sandwiched in between two pieces of Insul-bright.

Bento Bag - a lunch bag sewing tutorial

Sew along two sides and a couple inches along the bottom edge at each corner.  Leave the corners open and the center of the bottom open (for turning bag later). Trim away excess Insul-bright in the seam to reduce bulk.

Bento Bag - a lunch bag sewing tutorial

Box two corners and sew with 1/2″ seam.

Bento Bag - a lunch bag sewing tutorial

Keep lining wrong side out and place your exterior bag inside the lining.  This step is a bit tricky with the bulk and the handle inside but just go slow and match up sides at center points and pin well.  Sew around top edge with 1/2″ seam.

Bento Bag - a lunch bag sewing tutorial

Turn bag right side out and sew lining opening shut.

Bento Bag - a lunch bag sewing tutorial

Enjoy your new Bento Lunch Bag!

Bento Bag - a lunch bag sewing tutorial

Plenty of room inside to pack a good lunch!
Bento Bag - a lunch bag sewing tutorial

If you like this post… Please share it!

Bento Bag - a lunch bag sewing tutorial from rebeccamaedesigns

Thank You Sew Mama Sew and Spoonflower for offering this challenge!

Check out the participants!

Michelle from Falafel and the Bee
Alicia from Two Kids and a Blog
Mary from See Mary Quilt
Trina from Will Cook for Shoes
Daisy from Ants to Sugar

sherri

See More Tutorials ~

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Flat Iron Case ~ Tutorial

Travel Case for Flat / Curling Iron ~

a Sewing Tutorial

travel case tutorial

I’m in love… with all this pink!

This case isn’t just pretty…   It’s insulated with Insul-Bright and perfect for packing a hot iron!

I teamed up with The Warm Company to bring you a tutorial and Give-Away!

Here are the supplies you need to make this case:

Body ~ exterior fabric  12” x 18”
Body ~ lining fabric  12” x 18”
Insul-Bright for body ~  12” x 18”
Pocket fabric ~ 12″ x 11 1/2”
Pocket lining fabric ~ 12″ x 11 1/2”
Insul-Bright for pocket ~ 12″ x 11 1/2”
Binding ~  aprox 2 yards
Ribbon ~  40”
Velcro Dots ~  2 sets

You can find the complete tutorial below but here are a couple tips on quilting the case and binding the pocket…

QUILTING

I started with Insul-Bright so the case would be insulated.  If you’re not familiar with this product you can use it to insulate anything ~ hot or cold! I use it in my Lunch Bag Tutorial AND my Potholder / Towel tutorial)

flat iron case sewing tutorial

I layered the bag parts (Insul-Bright / fabric) following the tutorial and marked them for quilting using this hera marker I found on amazon.  I used my ruler and marker to make marks at 1″ intervals to keep my stitching lines straight..

sewing tutorial flat iron case

 You can see the marks here…

hera marker tutorial

After all my lines were marked, I just stitched right on them!

BINDING

After my quilting was done I got my binding strip aligned on the top edge.  I lined up the raw edge of the binding with the raw edge of the pocket and stitched the binding on with 1/4″ seam.

flat iron case sewing tutorial

Then I flipped the fold edge to the back of the pocket, top stitched along the binding catching the back (fold) of the binding on the lining side!  Easy!

flat iron case sewing tutorialPlace your quilted layers together and bind around all the edges, add your velcro… Done and Done!

flat iron travel case sewing tutorial

 Find out more about Insul-Bright here.

flat iron case travel sewing tutorialWant to make one too? You can!

sewing tutorial flat iron case

Please pin this tutorial and share!

PRINTABLE PDF is below…

Free Sewing Tutorial for a flat iron or curling iron case.

Here is the Flat Iron Case PDF.

If you are new to my site, find more free tutorials on my

TUTORIALS PAGE.

And don’t forget to visit my shop for patterns, fun sewing machine clocks, quilt-a-longs, mitten patterns and more!

 

The Warm Company is giving away

FIVE PACKAGES of Insul-Bright!!! (US residents)

To enter:

 Like The Warm Company on FB

and/or

Pin this post on Pinterest!

 Comment that you did! Easy!

I’ll pick and post the winners on Sunday 4/26/15!
Sorry this Drawing is closed but Please Pin and Share this tutorial!

 

sherri

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diy ~ a hanging phone pocket for charging

Phone Charging Pocket Tutorial

I have a quick tutorial for you today!  I made this little pocket for my daughter to use in her dorm room at college.  Now she has a place to hang her phone near her bed while it charges.  So Cute!

hanging cell phone pocket tutorial diy

You will need:

* one jean pocket

* piece of fabric and batting slightly larger than pocket

* embellishments/perle cotton, lace, fabric, beads etc.

* command hook

* d-ring & scrap of ribbon

hanging phone charging pocket tutorial

Cut out your jean pocket approx 1 inch around all edges.  Cut (or piece) a scrap of fabric the same size.

cell phone pocket tutorial

Place your fabric right side up on a slightly larger piece of batting.  Quilt your fabric and batting piece together. I did a little straight line quilting following my piecing lines…

how to make a cell phone pocket diy

Slip the d-ring on your ribbon (about a 5″ piece) and fold ribbon in half.   Pin onto the top center of your pocket.  You can see I sewed a belt loop onto my ribbon first, just for fun!

hanging cell phone holder for charging

Place your pocket and quilted fabric square right sides together and sew around perimeter of actual pocket shape – using the pocket edge as a guide.  Leave an adequate opening on long edge for turning your piece right side out.

cell phone holder diy

Trim away excess pocket and fabric/batting, clip corners.

cell phone pocket for dorm room

Turn right side out and stitch opening closed.

cell phone holder for dorm room

admire the back…

cell phone holder tutorial

Add applique and embellish pocket with fabric, perle cotton, ribbon, lace, beads… whatever makes you happy!

hanging cell phone pocket tutorial diy

 

sherri

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Finishing ~ How to Bind a Quilt

If you are ready to attach your binding then you should have your quilt sandwich all quilted.  If you need to make binding, check out the tutorial on making bias binding.

For this demo I’ll be binding my quilt block from the quilt sandwich tutorial so it’s easier to photograph.

Optional ~ before trimming the batting / backing and squaring up the quilt top I like to topstitch using a 1/8″ seam around the perimeter of the quilt top.  This extra step holds everything together for the binding.  Use a walking foot to evenly move the three layers through the machine.

DSC_0006 600x logo

Trim away the excess batting and backing layers. (don’t sweat it if you trim into your top stitched edge a bit)

Lay prepared binding along edge of quilt top (raw edges together).

how to bind a quilt

Note ~ A 1/4″ seam allowance is most common but I will be using a 1/2″ seam allowance in this tutorial.  Read making binding for more info on seam allowances.

Leave a 10″ tail when you begin to allow for joining when you finish sewing around perimeter. 

how to bind a quilt

Begin sewing (backstitch to secure) and stop 1/4″ from edge of quilt top. Backstitch at stop.

how to bind a quilt

Fold binding to the right, finger press fold and place a pin to secure.  It is important that your edges align.  If your binding rests higher, you didn’t sew far enough, and if it rests lower, you stitched too far.  Adjust now to avoid wonky corners later. 

how to bind a quilt

Fold binding to left and align with raw edge of quilt top.  Make sure fold on right edge is aligned with side of quilt top.

how to bind a quilt

Turn your quilt and begin sewing at the edge.  Remember to backstitch to secure.  Repeat this process for each corner.

quilt binding tutorial

When you come to the end leave yourself some room to work the two ends together ~ I usually shoot for an aprox 12″ gap.  You should have two tail ends now.

In the next picture I’m back to the start.  You will notice my starting tail is on the left and ending tail is on the right. 

My binding strip is 3.25″ wide when unfolded.  I’m measuring that same measurement ( 3.25″) from the edge of my starting tail and I’ve placed a pin there to mark it. (note: if you have a 2.5″ binding, measure in 2.5″ and so forth)

how to bind a quilt

Overlap the starting tail with the end tail from the right and mark a cutting/trim line from where the pin is.

quilt binding tutorial

Trim end tail on line. (do NOT cut through starting tail!!!)

quilt binding tutorial

Gather your quilt top and clip or pin in place to give yourself some freedom to work the two ends together without tugging.

Note ~ I’m using these  wonder clips that are fantastic!  Get yourself some, they are well worth the money!

how to bind a quilt
Without twisting,  place your two ends right sides together in an “L” shape.  Mark outside corner to outside corner and stitch together.
how to bind a quilt

Trim excess leaving 1/4″ below stitch line.

quilt binding tutorial

Remove clip holding quilt top and press binding seam open.

quilt binding tutorial

Binding should lay flat and fit perfect.  Notice diagonal seam distributes bulk nicely.  Finish stitching down binding. 

how to bind a quilt

Fold binding to back of quilt and notice the corners miter without fussing. 

quilt binding tutorial

The binding should extend to back of quilt and cover stitches nicely.  I’m using those fabulous wonder clips again…

how to bind a quilt

When I adjust the mitered corners on the backside of my quilt I face the little slit ‘opening’ in the opposite direction, which distributes any bulk more evenly.  In this next picture the ‘opening’ on the top side faces me.

how to bind a quilt

And here in the next picture the ‘opening’ on the back faces away.  Make sense?  ok :)

how to bind a quilt

Rather than clip the binding in place around the entire perimeter I usually just use a few clips to hold my binding in place to get going and then I move them ahead of my stitching as I go. 

I’m going to hand stitch the binding to the back. 

Choose a thread that matches your binding.  (mine is dark so you can see my stitches)

I’m using the knotless start method… 

Cut a length of thread.  Fold it in half and feed the loop through your needle.

knotless start sewing

Slide needle to other end.

knotless start sewing

Begin sewing your binding to the back along any side you choose.  Insert your needle right next to the binding and into the backing and batting only (not through quilt top) and then on your way up pick up the edge of the binding.

how to bind a quilt

Pull thread through until loop is close.  Feed needle (and thread) through loop.

how to bind a quilt
Pull tight to secure.

how to bind a quilt

Insert needle (into quilt back and batting only) right next to where thread comes out of binding.  Bring needle out aprox 1/4″ away, just catching the edge of the binding.

how to bind a quilt

Continue this same stitch all the way around the perimeter until your finished!  Admire your hand work!
how to bind a quilt

Admire your binding from the front too!

DSC_0136 600x400

And THAT is how you bind your quilt! :)

If you are binding around curved edges you start and end with the same method but you will simply curve your bias binding around the corners, pin in place, and stitch away.   DSC_0155 600x400

Piece of cake!

sherri

Craftsy

If you want to see more of this quilt, here are all the

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Finishing ~ How to make Bias Binding

Want to learn how to make Bias Binding for your quilt?

You might need to grab a cup of tea or coffee for this post.  It involves math… need I say more?

You may call me crazy but the binding is really a favorite part of the quilt making process for me… It’s the home stretch after all, and you get to see everything come together… I just love it!!!  And I want you to love it too! 

Although bias binding is stronger (wears better) than straight grain binding, you really only need to use bias binding if your quilt (or other project) has curved edges.   Bias binding strips are cut on the 45 degree angle of the fabric, and therefore stretch easily around curves. There are several methods of making bias binding and I’m going to show you how I make it.  I typically purchase my binding fabric right off the bolt so I like to calculate how much I will need based on a yardage cut rather than a square cut of fabric as some tutorials demonstrate.   We will assume that your standard off the bolt fabric is aprox 42″ wide with selvages removed. So, let’s get started…

how to make bias binding

bias binding ~ 1/2″ seam allowance

I’m using my Sampler quilt as the ‘math’ demo, and since it has rounded corners I needed to make bias binding.  You will need to know your quilt top dimensions and the desired width of your binding strips before you begin.

BINDING WIDTH The key to how wide to cut your binding strips is in your desired binding width or binding seam allowance.    The following chart helps to demonstrate what strip width to cut based on the binding seam allowance you are using.  When piecing your quilt top the standard seam allowance is 1/4″, therefore if your pattern extends to the edge of the quilt or you have points on the edge (no border) then you may need to go with a 1/4″ binding seam.  This ensures that your finished results (quilt top) will be correct (and you won’t sew into your points).  Still with me? Here is a chart showing typical seam allowances and possible strip widths:

Seam allowance

Cut binding strip width to:

¼”

2”, 2 ¼” or  2 ½”

3/8”

2 ¼” or 2 ½”

½”

2 ½”, 3” or 3 ¼”

You might be wondering… Why the variations in widths? If your using a low loft batting and quilting cotton (like my example) then you will go with a narrower width.  But if you are using a high loft batting and perhaps flannel or a heavier weight fabric then go with a wider width strip even though you are using the same seam allowance.  This will give you a little extra binding to accommodate the thickness of your quilt. 

Another thing to think about (as if that wasn’t enough) is if you like your binding tight, so when you fold it over to the back side it just covers your stitches or maybe you like it a little looser so it extends beyond your back stitches more.  If you’re a beginner, go with a wider binding that corresponds to your desired seam allowance, it might be the easiest option.  All these things factor into your width choice. Make sense? 

bias binding math

BINDING MATH:

example: 

Math for a 60″ x 74″ quilt top. 

I want to use a 1/2″ seam allowance

My batting is low loft but I have lots of seams along the edge of my quilt top so I’m going a little wider than usual to accommodate a little more bulk ~  3 1/4″ binding strips.

math:

60 + 60 + 74 + 74 = 268″  perimeter

add 12″ extra (for piecing the strips, corners, finishing etc) = 280″ adjusted perimeter#

Now divide 280″ by 42 (useable width of fabric) = 6.6 and round this number up to 7 (next whole number)

Multiply 7 x the 3.25 (width of binding strips) = 22.75″

I WILL NEED 22.75″ OF FABRIC OFF THE BOLT FOR MY BINDING!

DONE! 

Does your head hurt now? I don’t want your head to hurt, so to make this easier, print off this EASY binding yardage worksheet to figure it out ~ just write in your numbers!   :)

Phew! Ok, so how do you cut your bias strips? I’m starting with my 22.75 width of fabric off the bolt and first I like to cut my selvages off ~ and I always cut 1″ off my selvage edge.

how to make bias binding

As a side note I save all my selvages for a future project… so throw them in a vase or other fun container in your sewing space… you never know when you may want to make a fun selvage project…

how to make bias binding

Now that your fabric selvages are trimmed off, open your fabric up.

how to make bias binding

fabric is right side down

Fold down top left corner to meet bottom edge.

how to make bias bindingPlace your ruler along the fold edge and cut the edge of the fold off.

how to make bias binding

trim aprox 1/8″ from fold edge

Remove the cut triangle without turning.

how to make bias binding

cut piece is right side up

Important ~ rotate the cut triangle counter clockwise so the bottom edge of the triangle (shown in picture above) is now the right edge of the triangle (see picture below).  Move the rotated triangle over to the right.

place RSD piece on top of RSU piece (now right sides together)and align right edges

place RSD piece on top of RSU piece (now right sides together)and align right edges

Slide the triangle under the larger cut of fabric so they are right sides together and align the right side edges.  Pin and sew the right edge.

triangle on bottom RST with right edges aligned

triangle on bottom RST with right edges aligned ~ sew right edge

Open seamed unit and you should have a parallelogram.  Press seam open.

how to make bias binding

seam and press open

Bias strips will now be cut along bias (45 degree) edge. 

how to make bias bindingIf your ruler isn’t long enough to cover length of the bias edge, you can move it as you cut or you can fold your fabric keeping the bias edge aligned.

how to make bias bindingPlace your ruler along the bias edge and cut your desired strip width ~ for the example I’m cutting 3.25″ strips.

how to make bias binding

cut strips on bias edge

The ends of your strips will be ready to piece together to form your continuous bias binding.

how to make bias binding

Place two ends right sides together ~ notice ends are offset slightly ~ sew 1/4″ seam.

how to make bias binding

Press the seam open and trim off ‘dog ears’.

how to make bias binding

Note: If you are piecing together straight grain binding or bias binding with a straight end on your strip,  overlap your ends an sew on a diagonal from outside edge to outside edge.  Trim excess and press seam open

how to make bias binding

Sew all strips together and press all seams open. Take this long piece to the ironing board, fold and press in half on the length to finish making your binding.  I like to use best press, which is a starch alternative, to make my binding nice and crisp.  I’m addicted to the Caribbean Beach scent, but it also comes in other scents or scent free.

how to make bias binding

Now Your DONE with making your bias binding!!!

sherri
Craftsy

If you want to see more of this quilt, here are all the

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Finishing ~ Hand Quilting

We all have our favorite part of putting together a quilt.  For some it’s the piecing, or maybe you love the binding (I do!) or perhaps it’s the quilting?  Free motion quilting is definitely fun but if you don’t have all the right equipment, getting a large quilt through a domestic machine can be daunting! 

When I was deciding on how to quilt my sampler I changed my mind more than once (shocker!) I debated, and thought, and finally decided to hand quilt.  After all, I had the time… (right?) 

how to hand quilt

I have hand quilted smaller projects but this was my first large hand quilting project.  I loved the freedom of being able to quilt one block at a time.  It was fun to finish one block and then move to the next one and decide on how to quilt just that block.  I could multi task, watch Netflix (who got me hooked on fringe and mad men?) and quilt at the same time!  And I don’t think I used my seam ripper once!  BONUS!

Spooky thought it was a good idea too… she’s such a big help…

hand quilting tutorial

I used DMC Perle Cotton #8  for my quilting~ SO YUMMY!  It comes in tons of colors, is easy to work with and shows off your hard work with it’s pretty shine.

hand quilting with perle cotton

Here are the colors I used:

purple 554, blue 519, yellow 725, green 3348, ecru, orange 947

I have this great DMC Color chart for choosing colors!

hand-quilting

If you’re looking for a color chart you can also download this DMC Thread Color Card PDF or purchase a DMC Thread Printed Color Card.

hand-quilting with perle cotton

Gather your Supplies:

Here are some general supplies you’ll want before you get started.

Quilters Hoop ~ I’m using a 14″  Dritz 14-Inch Quilting No-Slip Hoop  

Thimble ~ I use this one  Clover Metal Open-Sided Thimble

Perle Cotton #8

Scissors ~ small pair

Needle ~ recommendations from DMC here

Needle Threader ~ optional but I couldn’t have done without one

Painters Tape ~ for help keeping stitches straight

Basted Quilt Sandwich

This is the type of needle threader I used.  It has a hook on each end that slides through needle eye to grab the floss and pull through.  Made threading SO much easier!  This needle threader from DMC would also work.  You’ll just need to be sure your needle eye can accommodate the hook.

hand quilting tutorial

Getting Started:

It’s best to work from the quilt center out toward the edges, so position your hoop closest to the center of your quilt and secure.  I started my quilting on the center block of my quilt and worked my way around and out to the sides.  It worked out beautifully.  It’s a little more cumbersome when you’re working in the middle of the quilt, since there’s more quilt to wrap your arms around, but just adjust everything until you’ve got a comfortable set up.

Cut yourself a piece of perle cotton no longer than 30″ (manageable length).  Any longer and it will be awkward to work with and it will get fuzzy when you pull it through the quilt sandwich too many times.

Thread your needle and tie a simple overhand knot in the end of the cotton.

hand quilt tutorial

Start by inserting the needle aprox 1/2 inch from where you wish to begin quilting.  Push your needle through the top and batting only and travel through quilt.  Bring your needle up at your starting point. 

hand quilt with perle cotton

Pull the thread until the knot reaches the quilt top and give it a sharp tug ~ it will pop through the quilt top and embed itself in the batting.  You will get the hang of this after a few tries.

how to hand quilt

Let’s get quilting.  I quilt toward myself at a slight diagonal, (rather than right to left) and I find it the easiest way for me.  Do what feels comfortable for you.  Start a stitch with the needle sticking straight down through the quilt.  I’m right handed and I have my right hand on top of the quilt making the stitch, and my left hand guiding the needle on the back of my quilt.  In the next picture my left hand is under the quilt sandwich and the needle is just poking through the other side resting on my finger tip.  (yes, this finger tip will get a little sore… occupational hazzard)

big stitch quilting tutorial

When I feel the point of the needle come through the back of the quilt with my finger tip, I tilt the needle backward away from me.   Now, push that back finger up, creating a small bump on the quilt top where your needle is.  With your right hand thumb, push down on the quilt top in front of the needle, making the bump more defined, and now you can push the needle through that bump. 

hand quilting big stitch tutorialReview steps:

  • needle straight up and down just through quilt sandwich touching left hand finger tip

  • tilt needle back

  • push up with left finger from under quilt

  • push down with right thumb in front of needle to make the defined bump

  • push needle through bump

big stitch hand quilting

Your thimble may feel unnatural on your finger, and you may struggle through the first several stitches but it will quickly get easier.  Stick with it!  Your left finger tips will get sore and there are some products you can use like another thimble or little ‘dots’ to stick on your finger to protect it but I couldn’t get the same results using anything on those left hand fingers.  I needed to be able to feel the needle.

big stitch quilting

When you are ready for another length of perle cotton or done your quilting, you will need to tie off and embed the end in the batting.  Start by tying another overhand knot in the end of your perle cotton. 

hand quilt with perle cotton

Pull the end of the perle cotton, sliding the knot down near the quilt top. 

hand quilting with perle cotton

Knot should be right at the top of the quilt.

hand quilting with perle cotton

Insert needle back into hole that the perle cotton is coming out of and travel through the batting only, then back out of top about a 1/2″ away. 

hand quilting tutorial

Pull needle through and give perle cotton a tug to embed knot in batting and carefully snip off the tail.

big stitch hand quilting tutorial

If you are quilting a long straight line and need a ‘guide’ try using painters tape and just stitch along side of it!  It helps and the tape pulls right off and you can use it a couple more times before the ‘stick’ is worn out.  big stitch hand quilting tutorial

That’s it!  If your new to hand quilting start on small projects like I did, then when your comfortable, move your way up to a large project…

Sampler Quilt – details and quilted blocks

Find the Scrap Happy Sampler Quilt pattern

 in My Shop AND on Craftsy.

sampler block of the month

I also hand quilted Modern Love if you want to go check out that quilt… And Warm Wishes is also hand quilted and includes a pdf pattern download.

I have a

Hand Quilting Bundle available in my shop

if you want to give it a go!  

Pearl Cotton Hand Quilting Bundle

I found these video tutorials very helpful:

This is another EXCELLENT free video tutorial if you want to get into hand quilting feathers:    how to hand quilt feathers video tutorial

If you are hard core into quilting ~ this looks FUN!   hand quilting motifs video tutorial

hand quilting tutorial

If you like this post

Please share it…

how to hand quilt with perle cotton

sherri

Craftsy

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Finishing ~ Quilt Sandwich

After your quilt top layout is pieced and you’ve added a border (if you choose to) it’s time to plan out your quilt back and make your ‘Quilt Sandwich’.  My quilt top is scrappy, and I’m determined to use up ‘stash’ (even the big pieces)  so I decided to go with a scrappy back as well.

quilt sandwich tutorial

QUILT BACK

Remember that your backing will always need to be larger than the top (add 6″ to width and length.)  If your going to make it scrappy, you need to plan where your seams fall.  You don’t want them close to the edges of the final quilt.  The excess backing that extends beyond the quilt top is cut away after quilting so your seams will need to be well inside the ‘quilt top’ parameters.

quilt sandwich backing tutorial

QUILT SANDWICH Supplies:

quilt top

backing

batting ~ I’m using warm and natural cotton batting (love cotton!)

painters tape ~ if your pin basting on a surface or floor

quilting pins ~ the bent ones

quilt sandwich tutorial

Your ‘Quilt Sandwich’ consists of three parts:

QUILT TOP 

BATTING ~ I want my batting to extend 2″ all the way around my quilt so I will add 4″ to the length and width of the quilt top.

BACKING ~ I want my backing to be just slightly larger than my batting.  I want it to extend 1″ beyond my batting.  To accomplish this I will add 2 inches to my batting length and width.

QUILT TOP

 

Why do you need to extend the batting and backing?  During quilting there can be some shifting of the layers.  Extending the batting and backing will ensure this isn’t a problem, your quilt back will be large enough and you’re not quilting tiny bits lined up at the edge.  Some quilters are more generous with their extended measurements, so do what suits you and your quilting needs.  If you are sending your quilt to a longarmer they may have specific requirements so be sure to check in advance. 

Making a Quilt Sandwich

(I’m cheating and using a quilt block for my demo so it’s easier to photograph!)

Lay out your batting on a large surface or the floor. Layer your quilt top over the batting so batting extends at least two inches around.  Trim batting to size.

quilt sandwich tutorial

Roll up batting and quilt top together and set aside while you lay out backing. DSC_0030 700x logoPress quilt back and smooth out on floor/surface with right side down.  Using painters tape (girls best friend) generously tape backing to surface.quilt sandwich tutorial Move your quilt top / batting ‘roll’ on top of quilt back.DSC_0049 700x logo Center, unroll and smooth out batting / quilt top.  This is your quilt sandwich.  quilt sandwich tutorialNow, pin the heck out of it!  Be sure to put a few pins the batting area that isn’t covered by the quilt top.quilt sandwich tutorial Also be sure to fill the pins up.  If they are not ‘full’ they will slide and all that work will be for nothing! (boo)quilt sandwich tutorial

There are other methods of basting your quilt sandwich ~ if you try spray basting be sure to spray outside.

Now Your Ready to Quilt!

Find the Scrap Happy Sampler Quilt pattern

 in My Shop AND on Craftsy.

 

sherri
Craftsy

 

If you want to see more of this quilt, here are all the

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Finishing ~ Quilt Sampler Layout

FINISHED!!

wedge quilt border

Time to start finishing your Sampler Quilt?  If you’ve pieced all your 12 blocks, I’m certain you’ve already been playing with your layout and you’ve probably come up with a couple (if not a few) possible layout options on your own.

SCRAP HAPPY SAMPLER QUILT PATTERN

 I want to share my layout with you including the coordinating block/month numbers…

scrap happy block layout

There are four pieced sections…

layout 1

You will notice that the 4 pieced sections in my layout are identical (divided by color) ~ there are 2 full and 2 half blocks in each section, in the same order.  They are all simply rotated in a different direction.  If you decide to follow this layout shown above:

1) piece all 4 sections

2) piece 3 bottom columns/sections together

3) add top row/section.

sampler layout PDF

scrap happy bom sampler quilt

or you could position all the rows/sections horizontally shown below in option 2…

layout 2

You can move around the blocks in each row to come up with a new layout.

Here is a third option shown below.  The two blue rows are identical and the two purple rows are identical.

layout 3

There are several ways you can put these blocks together… do what suits YOU! I’ve really enjoyed offering this Block of the Month, thanks so much to everyone who took time to send me messages, comment on posts and add pics to the flickr pool (Maureen!).  I love my quilt (yes I’m keeping this one!) and I hope you love yours too!

 

Find the Scrap Happy Sampler Quilt pattern

 in My Shop AND on Craftsy.

finishing

More finishing tips:

I’m going to share more finishing tips over the next couple weeks.  Here is what I have planned…

Borders ~ how I pieced my sampler border

wedge quilt border

 Quilt Sandwich ~ batting, backing, basting

how to make a quilt sandwich

 Quilting ~ hand quilting and other methods

how to hand quilt with perle cotton tutorial

Binding ~ bias binding

bias binding tutorial

Binding your Quilt

how to bind a quilt

sherri

Please Pin and Share!

Scrap Happy Sampler Quilt Pattern

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Giveaway Day!

I’m participating in the giveaway day over at Sew Mama Sew today ~ I’ve got a bundle of fat quarters from Kate Spain’s ‘in from the cold’ collection to give away today!

infromcoldgif

Remember I used it for my Holiday Hostess set?  I made a mug rug and a wine bottle gift bag (find the tutorial here).

DSCN1784

DSCN1792

Now I’m offering one of my followers a four fat quarter bundle for your stash!  (US shipping only)  If the winner is an international follower I’ll send you two free patterns from my etsy shop of your choosing!

Everyone can be a winner! 

The giveaway closes on the 13th, I will announce the winner (random generated) on the 15th and I’ll ship out the ‘stash’ on or before the 20th!

in from the cold kate spain

If you like me on facebook or if you

 Follow on Bloglovin

please comment below for a chance to win… * 

and tell me what you’d like to make with this fabric bundle!

12/15 Update: We have 2 winners!

US Fabric Winner is Jenniffier from jenniffier.blogspot.com

and the International Pattern winner from Canada is Laura from  craftyhour.com

I will be in touch!! Congrats!!

giveaway_2013_Dec9

 * comments appear after moderation, thanks!sherri

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Scrap Happy #12 Block of the Month

Today I get to reveal the FINAL block!  Block number twelve in the Scrap Happy BOM is ready!  I’m calling this block Double Starburst.  It reminds me of those Christmas Crackers that are filled with treats ~ I don’t know why but that’s what I think of every time I look at this block.  Crazy?  maybe.

quilt block of month #12

I’m pretty sure my dog ate the photo disk since I could only find one picture of this block but there will be plenty more in the final post!

In January I will post pictures of the completed quilt with block layout options and I will also post the tutorial on how I made the border for my quilt top in case you’d like to do something similar.

Here are some of THE SCRAP HAPPY BLOCKS!

Scrap Happy Sampler Quilt Pattern

Find the Scrap Happy Sampler Quilt pattern

 in My Shop AND on Craftsy.

SCRAP HAPPY SAMPLER QUILT PATTERN

Thanks so much for following along!

Please Pin and Share!

Scrap Happy Sampler Quilt Pattern

sherri

Craftsy

If you want to see more of this quilt, here are all the

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Countdown to Christmas ~ Hip Holiday Houses

hip holiday fabricI have a fun project to share with you today.  I know I’ve mentioned my love of the holidays with you already ~ and you also know I love a good challenge so when I stumbled upon the Holiday Challenge from Ruth at Sew Love Fabrics hosted by Rachel over at Stitched in Color  I couldn’t resist!  Look at the Yummy Fabric they sent me to play with!!  Six fat quarters from Artist Josephine Kimberling‘s new Hip Holiday collection!

I was in the  midst of setting up my Christmas Village… and that’s where my inspiration came from ~ How about some Hip Holiday Houses! (insert loud cheers!)

Department 56 North Pole Village display

Is it possible to resist such cuteness?  I think not!  Don’t you want to make a snowman?  Have a hot cocoa?  Watch a Wonderful Life?  You know you do!

North Pole Village Department 56 Display

All this happy inspiration was not lost on me!   I made my own happy hip holiday houses! (that’s a mouthful!)

House Shaped Pillows Sewing tutorial

I had so much fun with this project!  I got to play with a bunch of buttons and ribbons sparkly stuff in my stash…  Ellie couldn’t resist my  hip holiday houses… but she was a little upset I didn’t invite her to model ~ that’s her shy face… but she made the cut ~ more cuteness! Can’t even stand it!

Hip Holiday Houses sewing tutorial

This would make a sweet house warming gift! Free motion stitch or embroider ‘home’ on the door or a street address,  house number, family name  over the door :)

House Pillows sewing tutorial

 how to sew house shaped pillows tutorial Here’s a quick tutorial on how to put one together…

Gather your fabric and embellishment supplies  (ribbon etc)

how to make house shaped pillows sewing tutorial

1) Cut one 8.5″ W x 11″ H rectangle for the body of the house and a 9.25W x 8.5H rectangle for the roof.  Place them right sides together (roof will overhang on each side of body) and sew together with 1/4″ seam.

house shaped pillows tutorial

2) cut some roof ‘snow’ ~ use your rotary cutter and free hand a wavy line in a cut of fabric at least 9.25″Wide (as wide as roof) and aprox 2-3″ High.

house shaped pillows sewing tutorial

 3) Align your ‘snow’ along top edge of roof and attach by sewing around edges and add any trim you like.

DSC_0022

4) Trim left and right roof edges by measuring from the bottom corners in one inch from top corners.

house shaped pillows sewing tutorial

5) Add some trim to the seam where the roof meets the house body.  Place unit on top of some batting ~ I used warm and natural batting.  Quilt your house.  Add a door and windows to your liking.  I made a felt door embellished with ‘Hip Holiday’ from the fabric selvage and stitched it in place after my quilting was done.sewing holiday houses

6) Trim away excess batting after your quilting is done and repeat steps to make the back panel for your pillow.  I didn’t embellish the back but you can!

christmas pillows sewing tutorial

7) Place your panels right sides together and stitch around entire perimeter leaving generous opening at bottom.  Turn right side out, stuff and whip stitch opening closed.

christmas pillows sewing tutorial

8) ENJOY!

christmas pillows sewing tutorial

sewing tutorial hip holiday houses sewing tutorial

Check out what everyone else made in the challenge over at Stitched in Color and if you’re looking for some hip holiday fabric – hop over to Sew Love Fabrics for a fat quarter bundle.

sherri

MORE HOLIDAY PROJECTS & TUTORIALS:

Christmas Quilt Pattern Scandinavian Tomte

Christmas Quilt Pattern ~ Scandinavian Tomte

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Scrap Happy #11 Block of the Month

The November block is ready!  For November I made a Basic Bargello block!

bargello quilt block

This block is made using strip piecing.  Precise seams are the key with this otherwise ‘easy’ block.

bargello quilt block tutorial

If your just catching up here are some of the blocks…

Scrap Happy Sampler Quilt Pattern

block of the month quilt pattern

Thanks so much for following along!

Please Pin and Share this quilt!

Scrap Happy Sampler Quilt Pattern

 

sherri

If you want to see more of this quilt, here are all the

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Countdown to Christmas ~ Hostess Gift

Ok the Countdown to Christmas has begun!   First off the checklist is a Hostess gift!  Today I have a Wine Bottle Gift Bag and a Mug Rug tutorial to share with you! Image If you steppin’ out for the holidays you can’t just show up empty handed!   How about a bottle of your favorite holiday ‘spirits’ in a cute gift bag and a mug rug!  I’m imagining a bottle of Baileys Irish Cream or maybe some espresso vodka?  YUM!  Couple it with your favorite creamy drink recipe and some sweets?  Wouldn’t that be a super sweet gift?

DSCN1792

This quilted Bottle Gift Bag Tutorial is easy enough to whip up… and it’s so cute in this ‘in from the cold’ fabric by Kate Spain… remember I used this fabric in my Merry KrisMoose Pillow?  I told you I was hooked (confessions of a fabric hoarder!)  I ordered a fat quarter bundle of it (merry Christmas to me) and it came with some stocking panels… who knew? happy surprise bonus!

DSCN1784

The mug rug is made from a 9″ eight pointed star and measures 11.5″ square when finished with border and binding.

DSCN1781

I printed the cutting directions in EQ7 – you can also print most block cutting instructions with the FREE ‘Block Fab’ App right on your phone/ipad/tablet.  First cut your star pieces using the mug rug star cutting instructions.  You should have the following pieces cut:

100_6659 white

100_6661 white

Now piece your blocks.

100_6674 white

100_6684 white

Make your rows.

100_6693

Piece rows together and add a 1.5″ border.  Make a batting sandwich with fabric right sides out.

100_6697 whiteI hand quilted mine with DMC size 8 Pearl Cotton in Dark Steele Gray 414 – LOVE!

100_6702

Add binding to finish.

102_6757

Easy as Pie!  sherri

MORE HOLIDAY PROJECTS & TUTORIALS:
Christmas Quilt Pattern Scandinavian Tomte

Christmas Quilt Pattern ~ Scandinavian Tomte

TOMTE A mythological creature from Scandinavian folklore  typically associated with the Winter Solstice and the Christmas season. You may have ...
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Read More

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Ok the Countdown to Christmas has begun!   First off the checklist is a Hostess gift!  Today I have a Wine Bottle Gift ...
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Scrap Happy Sampler #10 – BOM

I can’t even believe we are at #10 ALREADY!  I mean… WHAT?  It’s been so much fun creating the blocks for this sampler and I just can’t wait for the big finish!!!!

I’ve already been thinking of the coming year – I have so many projects on the table that I just don’t know where to begin!   Ok, ok, ok … more on that later…

BLOCK #10 is ‘Balancing Act’ – it’s an improv block that’s a little wonky